Where To Eat- Nakagawa

There are a couple of really amazing restaurants to visit in Takinoue, and I’d like to tell you about Baru Nakagawa!

Nakagawa was originally called Silver Hat, and was in Nigorikawa for many years. This past summer, though, they built a new grocery store and restaurant, and moved into the center of Takinoue. The entire building is entirely new, and definitely feels that way!

The part of the building facing the main street is the grocery store; from the middle and back is the restaurant itself.

Nakagawa’s full name, Kaisen ・Yakiniku Baru Nakagawa (海鮮・焼肉バルNakagawa) tells you what their specialty is- sushi and yakiniku, or Japanese-style barbecue. However, their menu is really large, and offers a lot of choices, just like they did when they were Silver Hat. You can get pretty much anything you might have a craving for, including ramen, sukiyaki, karage, fish, and many other things. They also have a rotating menu with foods that are in season.

I love this- the open-cooked Okhotsk mackerel set



A personal favorite of mine; tuna, avocado, and wasabi

Their drink menu is also enormous- they have a large selection of Japanese sakes, shochu, beer, and many pages of mixed drinks.

nakagawa food 4
The バイオレットフィズ (violet fizz)

The grocery store itself has a great selection, and even a seating area facing the street. I especially recommend their sushi, it’s really good!


Baru Nakagawa is open for lunch (11:00- 14:00) and dinner (17:00-23:00), and the grocery store is open from 9:00- 19:30. If you want more info, please check out their website or twitter!





Setsubun was a few weeks ago. I’ve never been able to attend any of the events for it during the years I’ve been here, just due to bad timing with work. This year, however, I managed to find some time where I could sneak over to the preschool for an hour to watch two of my coworkers from the Board of Education and terrify all of the children- on purpose!

beans edited

Setsubun is on February 3rd and marks the start of spring in Japan, though if you look out the windows right now you wouldn’t know it (the snow is piled high, my friends). On Setsubun, families gather and throw roasted beans at someone dressed like an oni (devil) while saying “鬼は外、福は内!” which means “devils out, luck in!” This custom, called mamemaki (literally, bean-scattering)  symbolizes cleansing away all the bad stuff of the previous year and bringing in luck for the new year.


Which brings me  back to preschool, where every year the kids gather in their playroom and are visited by two oni- two representatives from the board of education, who wear devil costumes and carry big, floppy, plush iron clubs. The kids are given peanuts, and when the devils arrive, they have to throw their beans and “drive the devils out.”

Oni edited

What really happened was a lot of fright and crying! The kids were terrified by the goofy-looking oni. They cried, I cried (I’m a sympathetic crier) but eventually they drove the oni from the room with their effort. Once the kids had calmed down, the oni sheepishly came back into the room to tell the kids that they’d learned their lessons, and how they would try to be good this year- and that the kids should be too, or they’d be back again! I am under the impression that some parents use threats of the oni prematurely returning to get their kids to behave.. from what I saw, it’s probably a very effective threat!

oni chase 2

Besides getting to watch the preschool event, I also made and ate eho-maki with some friends. Eho-maki is a special type of very large and uncut sushi roll, which you eat facing that year’s lucky direction that changes based on that year’s zodiac- eho maki actually translates to “lucky direction roll.” You can buy eho-maki at grocery stores, but we figured it would be more fun to make. There are rules- you have to face the correct direction, you can’t cut it into smaller pieces, and you can’t speak until you eat the whole thing. This year was SSW, which required around five minutes of googling and math to figure out where we should be facing. Turns out, SSW is right towards my heater!

Eho-maki typically has 7 different ingredients, to symbolize the 7 gods of good fortune. And like I said before, you can’t cut eho-maki to make it smaller- that would be like cutting your luck! Or so I was told. For our first, formal rolls we made some smaller versions- so I wouldn’t be stuck eating in silence for ten minutes while I struggled through eating an entire roll. After our good-luck rolls, we ended up just having a nice sushi-party with the rest of our ingredients.


Wild Foods- Rakuyo

Hokkaido and the rest of Japan has a culture of foraging and consuming the edible, not typically commercially-available, wild plants (known as sansai) that grow lushly all over the island. There’s an abundance of food, if you know where to look and can discern between various plants.

Before I go any further, though, I need to warn you- I’m not an expert. Every time I’ve picked and eaten any of these plants, it’s been with someone who has much more experience than me in finding and identifying them, and I’ve been cautioned and shown lookalike (inedible and sometimes poisonous) plants many times. Sometimes, parts of a plant can be eaten while other parts can’t and are dangerous. So be careful, and go with someone experienced if this piques your interest!

This especially applies with mushrooms, which I am going to talk about today! Because of all the rain that occurs in late summer and early fall, a lot have cropped up, and so I’ve eaten a lot of rakuyo (落葉) mushrooms.

Some hard-to-gather rakuyo growing on trees.

I would never have though to eat rakuyo if they hadn’t been given to me by my tea ceremony teacher. They’re a muddy brown color, and the bottom of the mushroom cap is spongy, which usually would indicate something that I wouldn’t want to eat. They also tend to look… well… kind of slimy. But don’t let that turn you off from trying them if they’re ever offered to you!


They go bad quickly, so you have to find them shortly after they sprout. I’ve never seen them offered for sale, and that could be why- just not a long enough shelf life.

I ate rakuyo quite a few different ways. My favorite was soaked in sweet vinegar, but people also eat them in miso soup, with daikon oroshi, and just generally in substitute for other mushrooms in recipes. They are… slimy… but they have a really good taste, assuming you can make it to your mouth and not drop it from your chopsticks onto the table. Give it a try if you have the chance!